I will present the various options that the Commission is considering for the targeted revision of the EU’s Cosmetics Regulation. These options include measures to address the risks from chemicals that could affect the endocrine system, a possible new definition of nanomaterials, digital labelling and the future of the SCCS.
- Are there any gains and losses?
- Who is the most impacted?
It is well known that there are meetings with the Competent Authorities and the European Commission about cosmetic products, but it is not the only place. Competent authorities from the Council of Europe (46 member states) meet at the Committee for Cosmetics and Consumer Health (CD-P-COS). They identify emerging risks, define priorities, write documents, make proposals for resolution and improve the cooperation between MS for market surveillance in the field of cosmetic products and tattoos. They also developed a network of Official Cosmetics Control Laboratories (OCCL): they developed analytical methods, foster co-operation among MS, promote technical collaboration and work towards mutual recognition of test results. The CD-P-COS holds joint sessions with the OCCL Network (MS + non-European observers) with the aim of optimising surveillance and pooling analytical resources and expertise across Europe.
In this presentation, CTPA provides an overview of the legal requirements and regulatory structure under the UK Cosmetics Regulation, including the practical implications of roles and responsibilities across the cosmetic supply chain and the future policies of the UK as a standalone country. The session will:
- Give clarity on roles and responsibilities across the cosmetic supply chain.
- Highlight differences between the UK and EU regulations.
- Provide a detailed analysis of specific articles including labelling and claims.
- Explore opportunities for UK compliance.
- Review a horizon scan of upcoming regulatory implications.
This session will be helpful to anyone involved in development, compliance and supply of cosmetic products, or anyone looking to gain a thorough knowledge of the future of the UK regulations.
- GB CLP, UK Cosmetics Regulation, UK REACH
- Allowed / Not allowed ingredients + divergence
- Safety Assessment report
- Focus on UK REACH
This session will provide attendees with an understanding of how cosmetic ingredients are regulated under the UK frameworks for chemicals, covering the GB Classification, Labelling and Packaging (CLP) Regulation, the UK Cosmetics Regulation and UK REACH. In particular, the presentation will cover the key regulatory processes relevant for cosmetic ingredients and how these different legislations interact and complement each other. It is important to highlight that some of the regulatory process under UK legislation are still being finalised.
Of major importance is also the divergence that cosmetic ingredients are seeing between the EU and UK chemical frameworks and how this is impacting industry now and in the future. There are ways to track this, prepare accordingly and minimise difficult consequences as much as possible.
The EU regulatory framework on cosmetic products is constantly updated in light of the most recent scientific findings. The changes mostly concern ingredients: every year, several new substances are banned or restricted, and beauty brands must quickly adapt to the updates to ensure their cosmetic products remain compliant with the EU requirements.
For beauty brands, those changes may require a reformulation of their products which is a costly and time-consuming operation. Therefore, it is essential to be informed about news on substances and act promptly. Timely communication about ingredient updates by regulatory affairs professionals avoids business disruptions.
The presentation provides an overview of the substances that have been recently banned or restricted for use in cosmetic products and those that are likely to be in the near future. In particular, it will be focused on the latest Omnibus Acts V and VI, which apply, respectively, as of December 17, 2022, and December 1, 2023.
Moreover, the presentation contains a section dedicated to where the changes come from (European Commission, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, CLP Regulation) and, consequently, the sources to monitor to be always up-to-date. The use of cosmetic ingredients is regulated in the Annexes to the EU Cosmetics Regulation — We clarify how to read them.
Finally, the presentation gives manufacturers of cosmetic products some valuable tips on how to deal with regulatory updates on ingredients.
In accordance with the European Strategy for Sustainability, France would like to promote an European initiative on the issue of packaging, in particular concerning the limitation of the use of plastics and better consumer information to encourage the packaging industry to innovate towards more environmentally friendly materials.
This position has involved France to implement a new law: the AGEC law, which will also has an impact on the cosmetics sector, with specificities notably on labeling. This mainly concerns the prohibition of environmental claims, but also labelling obligations in relation to the recyclability of packaging. The law also requires an obligation to inform the consumer about the presence of hazardous substances in the product or packaging.
All these specificities will be presented by Dr Stephane Pirnay, president of EXPERTOX, which can support you in particular for the regulatory evolutions of this type but also for the laboratory testings (PIF mandatory or quality control or judicial expertise) and for the safety assessments or evalutions of your products, raw materials and packagings.
The term “label” is defined in the FD&C Act and the FP&L Act. The definitions differ in that under the FD&C Act definition a label is “a display of written, printed or graphic matter upon the immediate container,” and under the FP&L Act definition “written, printed or graphic matter affixed to any consumer commodity or affixed to or appearing upon a package containing any consumer commodity.” One may say that the term “label” applies in the first instance to the information appearing directly on the immediate container and in the second instance to information attached to the immediate container and directly on or attached to the outer container if so packaged. But what are the requirements for the labeling in cosmetics according to the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009? Are these requirements met at each time someone markets a cosmetic? In which circumstances should a label be corrected and how far can someone go in respect to the claim used in a label for a cosmetic product? And as we live in the era of digitalization, how can digital labelling affect the requirements that already exist? How can we perform a smoother transition towards the implementation of the digital labelling in cosmetics?
- Do classic biometrics still answer market needs?
- How to substantiate the new claims?
- What are the challenges of today’s clinical studies?
The future of clinical studies may involve, in the future, from a less classical option to the use of other scientific areas for the evaluations. The use of technological options that go beyond biophysical measurements for the claim substantiation may be one of the options.
Combining the evaluation of cosmetic efficacy tests with the evaluation of parameters such as well-being, emotional aspects, lifestyle impact or even genetics may complement clinical studies and offer a more complete answer to the industry.
Today’s consumers are increasingly concerned with stress, anxiety, tiredness or fatigue and are looking for products in their skin routine that provide a more holistic overview for the individuals. Several scientific measures such as cortisol quantification, heart rate measurements or even the use of eye tracking or facial expressions assessments can be used for giving guidance and data for claim substantiation that are trend and answer to the consumer needs.
Consumers are looking to make more sustainable choices, and to obtain greater transparency about the substances used in products, their origin, sourcing, manufacturer, and social and environment impact. Traditional consumer interest in cosmetic product claims such as natural, organic, and vegan have increasingly expanded to encompass characteristics linked to environmental and social criteria. When considering support for claims, third-party certification according to private standards can strengthen the substantiation of such claims and offers a high level of assurance to the consumer and for comparative assertions. NATRUE will outline the existing tools and initiatives under development and initiatives that are available to help orientate cosmetic producers and consumer alike.
- What is PAO?
- What is open jar?
- What are the exceptions from the rule?
- Draft regulation and next step
This presentation will give an overview of the upcoming regulation on microplastics and the impacts for cosmetics manufacturers.
In recent years, accomplish a sustainable development has been a focus point of our society and consumer demands accompany this. In the cosmetic industry, we have been seeing a shift where products are more and more marketed with a “greener” approach, being formulated with natural or natural derived ingredients. However, a “greener” cosmetic formula can not only rely on using natural or natural derived ingredients but rather assess their sustainability, evaluating what is the environmental and social impact of the ingredients used.
The existence of several concepts that are marketing concepts and have not yet a legal definition, and the existence of different cosmetic standards lead to the emergence of greenwashed claims. Hopefully, several cosmetic companies and ingredient suppliers are committed to correctly promote green marketing.
In this communication is provided an overview of:
- What are “Greener” Cosmetic Formulas?
- Formulation challenges vs regulatory challenges
- Overview on the updates from the 11th Revision SCCS/1628/21
- What is RE-Place?
- What added value does it bring to you?
- What is available in theory and what is applicable in practice?
- How to apply the available and useful NGRA/NAM tools in daily assessment practice?
- Missing pieces and challenges for cosmetic ingredients
- Women health challenges and trends.
- safety, borderline products, type of products, trends
- Why it is important to be GMP compliant?
- How to be GMP compliant?
- How do 3rd parties check your GMP compliance?
Among the obligations that the Regulation 1223/2009 stablishes for the responsible person, there are some related to different aspects of the cosmetovigilance; Not only the notification of the serious undesirable effects they are aware of, but also the preparation and updating of the product information file that shall contain all available data on the undesirable effects and serious undesirable effects to the cosmetic product. These data will contribute to a better understanding of the cosmetic products and their ingredients, and thus ensuring the safety of the cosmetic products that are available on the market.
In this presentation we will see the regulatory foundation of cosmetovigilance, and as an example of management by a Competent authority in cosmetovigilance, the Spanish system. To summarise, we will conclude that the notification of the serious undesirable effects related to a cosmetic product to a Competent Authority, and the collecting of all the available data on cosmetovigilance on its product information file, are key aspects to ensure the safety of our cosmetic product.
In a sector as competitive as cosmetics, innovation is ensured through careful monitoring the state of the art, evaluation of new ingredients (such as innovation per se, or by necessity – prohibitions, restrictions), improvement of existing formulations, adaptation to new market trends or through increasingly sensitive and less invasive evaluation methods.
The national and european legislation applicable to this sector should allow it to evolve and at the same time should always ensure consumer safety and the protection of public health.
This revision will bring constraints and changes to the industry. On the part of CA, the market surveillance mechanism will have to be reviewed and/or adapted to ensure compliance with the future legal measures: practical examples of market surveillance.
Company Director & Regulatory and Quality Advisor, Codibel, Belgium
- Challenges related to intellectual property information,
- Availability of PIF information in the supply chain (e.g., suppliers vs. 3PM vs. customers that are often RP themselves),
- Sharing of PIF and CPSR information and documentation in the supply chain
- Cooperation between 3PM and the brand owners (clients) regarding the management of PIF, safety, and compliance)
- Practical solutions and tips
- What is the role of influencers in the cosmetics world?
- Can they have a negative impact?
- How can they impact sustainability?
Cosmetics, part of our days, used to improve our quality of life, our self-esteem, help us to integrate in the modern society, but how to make the difference as manufacturer between our product and the others? How to choose the most appropriate for us as a consumer? Do we choose in the same way no matter the region, age or gender? Which is the trigger for our choices as consumers? What is the most powerful tool to push our product in front, as manufacturers?
The solution seems to be on the newborn world called internet, that supposed to be accompanied with a lot of responsibility… and the winning product of the new marketing era, are influencers, now omnipresent in our modern life due to social network, adds. Cosmetics are the favorite products in influencing, apparently since everybody is using, everybody has a word to say, but how valid are their opinion, should we guide our decision to use something on our body based on that? Do we realize when is an authorized opinion and when is just a testimonial? So, influencers, are they good or bad? Should we trust them? Are they human?
The new present is on fast-forward bombing us with information: buy this or that, searching engines from browsers follow our interest suggesting similar products in real world or virtual ones. Do we need new regulations?
The answer is a click away.
- Introduction to current knowledge
- Why microbiome friendly is important?
- In vitro studies
- In vivo studies
Nowadays, the relationship between the balanced skin microbiome and the healthy skin is well established. The pH of the healthy skin is partially attributed to microbiome, to antimicrobial substances secreted by certain microbes of the skin, and to epithelial tight junctions that are promoted by microbes.
Many people use cosmetics throughout the day, but cosmetics contain preservatives along with other substances with potential antimicrobial properties. An unbalanced dose of such substances may negatively impact on the microbiota of the skin. Thus, in recent years, a global trend has arisen to examine the effect of cosmetic products on the microbiome: first, to not disrupt it, and secondly, to improve it.
Before 1990, the studying of the skin microbiome was done almost exclusively with microbiology methods. Different media and different incubation temperatures and conditions were used to identify the microbes of skin. With this approach, only a small fraction of the skin microbiome was detected.
After 1990, Sanger Sequencing was used worldwide to identify species of microbes. Later on, Real Time PCR provided another way to study the skin microbiome with the use of molecular probes targeting the most popular microbial species. Lastly, the Next Generation Sequencing (NGS) technology that arose from the Human Genome Project gave the opportunity to unravel the skin microbiome in greater detail.
The effect of cosmetics on the skin microbiome is tested usually with in vivo studies combined with NGS analysis, but in the last years, in vitro studies have emerged as a useful alternative.
Sustainability is a strategy aimed at people and planet prosperity. The UN Agenda 2030 for Sustainable Development was signed on 25th September 2015 by the governments of the 193 Member Countries of the United Nations. The UN Agenda has a global validity since it takes into account of the three dimensions of sustainable development – economic, social and ecological – in a balanced way and aim to end poverty, fight against inequality, tackle climate change, and build peaceful societies that respect human rights.
The sustainable development goals are transposed at EU level to guide the Member States in the final definition of their strategic objectives. In this regard, EU cosmetics manufacturers are involved in several action aimed at implementing suitability including raw material extraction, manufacturing, distribution, and use, to final recycling and waste disposal.
The EU financed the H2020 EcoeFISHent project (101036428) aimed at establishing new value chains sustainable and efficient exploitation of fish processing side streams to obtain bioactive elements and gelatin to create value-added products with applications in several sectors. For cosmetics, EcoeFISHent will produce, at an industrial level, skincare products as well as biodegradable and compostable barrier layers for cosmetic packaging.
Public Relations Specialist, Association of Perfumery and Cosmetics, Ukraine
The presentation will give a short introduction to the role of APCU, the current situation with the Ukrainian cosmetics market, and the wartime challenges that the cosmetic industry in Ukraine is facing right now.